Icefishing Tips:
Oxygen-rich waters attract and hold baitfish which in turn attract local gamefish. Try locating weedbeds for this added attraction and the opportunity to put more fish on the ice.

When using tipups it's a good idea to attach a small unobtrusive bobber to your line just at the waters surface once your tipup is set. This will allow you visual confirmation on whether or not a fish has taken line and also afford you quicker line setting when rebaiting.

Clear ice is typically strong ice but can also be a dead giveaway to your location especially in shallow water. Use the ice chips from your fishing hole and scatter them across the area where you will be sitting to help breakup your outline.

When fishing very shallow water fish like bluegills and crappies, finesse is the name of the game. If you're fishing shallow on a sunny day the light can penetrate through your fishing hole. Keep a few chips of ice or slush in the hole to refract the sunlight above.

Once you've found an area you plan to fish, auger enough holes through the ice to allow for fish movement throughout the day. At times you may be able to actually follow the bite rather than re-drilling or re-locating.

Ice safety is always a concern. These are some general rules of thumb speaking in terms of ice thickness. 4" of new clear ice is the minimum thickness for travel on foot. 5" is minimum for snowmobiles and ATVs. 8"- 12" for cars or small trucks.

Tired of that small minnow net plummeting to the bottom of the lake? Add a slice of styrofoam to the handle and next time you drop it in the icefishing hole you wont have to worry.

During times of thicker ice you can create a livewell by drilling 4 holes side by side with your auger but don't punch all the way through. Stop a few inches short of the ice thickness and pop a small hole through the remaining ice to allow the water to rise into the augered holes. You can now keep your fish alive and fresh during the rest of your fishing.

Create a flash attractant or dropper by removing the hook and tying a spoon or similar lure, like a swedish pimple, directly to your fishing line. Add another length of line, 12" to 18" in length, from the bottom of the spoon and tie on a single hook or teardrop with a live minnow hookset. The flash of the spoon will attract fish to your teardrop rig.

A compass or GPS can be a lifesaver if you should encounter a whiteout while on the lake. Best advice is to simply stay put during these conditions but you can safely navigate to shore with a compass if you have taken a reading from your fishing spot before the storm started.

Sharp hooks, new fishing line, and a reel that is working properly should be considered your foundation to every icefishing trip. Check all items to be sure they are in proper working order.

Larger fish tend to inhabit the edges of weedlines waiting to ambush smaller prey. When locating weeds try to identify the edges or circumference of the weedbed and work this area first to entice the larger fish. Go deeper into the weeds for panfish.

Rocky outcrops, river mouths, and submerged structure are all good fish attracting areas but can also be spots that lend a hand in creating unstable ice. Always pay attention to areas with current and visible changes in ice structure as they could signal dangerous conditions.

One method of live-hooking a bait is to run your hook through the minnow just behind or in front of the dorsal fin. Insert the hook just below the spine or in between the area where the minnow changes color, black to silver, for a realistic setup. Minnows hooked in this fashion will stay lively and struggle when fish approach which can often be noticed when you accompany the setup with a small slip bobber or similar float.

Try to envision your targeted fish species when setting your line depth in reference to the bottom of the lake. Fish prefer to feed in a slightly upward motion. Too close to the bottom could hamper your opportunites for those fish that are in a finicky feeding mode.

Finding the correct depth that fish are feeding at can be difficult without electronics. When icefishing what appears to be a dead area, try reeling your bait up a foot or so and begin jigging again. Continue to repeat until you find the feeding zone or prove that the area is currently void of fish.

In the beginning and end of the season, first and last ice, look for perch in the shallows congregating around the green weeds and structure. Typically water depths under 10' will hold the abundance of fish. During the mid-season concentrate on the deeper water levels where dropoffs occur or major structure changes take place.

When fishing bluegills keep the entire bait and jig small enough for the finicky bluegill. Too large of a bait combined with your jig will have the bluegill picking away at your bait until your hook is clean. Small pieces of minnow or wiggler will suffice but have a look at wax worms, mousies, and maggots. These baits are small enough for the bluegill to inhale.

Generally speaking, in early season your jigging method can be more rapid and pronounced. During the mid season try to limit the length of your jigging motion and it's frequency. Often, small movements of just the rod tip will be more than enough to entice gamefish such as the walleye to strike the bait.

Hordes of fishermen do not always mean tons of fish are biting. Often you find that word travels quickly when someone announces a limit catch of any fish species. There's no need to follow the masses when icefishing. If you feel the need to be close to this winter community of icefishermen then just veer off a short distance and fish the edges of the crowds. If you start catching fish don't be surprised if the crowd moves your way.

Bring your camera along on your trip. Although we try to pack as light as possible a camera will serve you well for future memories. Very large walleyes are better off back in the lake for breeding stock. With a quick snapshot you retain the moment and can still have a replica created in the future if desired.